To repeat:Your shirt should subtly reflect who and what you are, as part of a whole ensemble that says “this man is worth listening to.” The ability to make this kind of impact is not innate, it is learned. I hope this book has helped. “The sense of being perfectly well-dressed gives a feeling of inward tranquility which religion is powerless to bestow.”

In this section, we will briefly cover what we think of as the accessories to the shirt wardrobe ties, suits, cuff-links, other jewelry, belts, socks, shoes, suspenders and pocket squares. Let’s start with the item that people will see as soon as they see your shirt the tie. TIE  The well-made tie. The color and pattern of the tie are the first things that attract you, but you have to be sure that the tie is constructed so that it will knot well, drape properly and return to its original shape between wearings. The components of a tie are the...

The answer is, of course, as many as you can afford and as many as you can store. Another measure is at least 4-5 shirts per suit. Because cotton must be laundered after each use and because most of us send our shirts out to be done, you need to have enough to tide you over when the others are at the launderers. My basic rule is that every man who regularly wears suits needs at least two dozen shirts in his closet. Of these, the first 12 should come from what I describe as the Basic Dozen. These 12...

Informal Formal wear? Times have changed and even the most formal occasions have become more casual. The banded collar tuxedo shirt is now seen even at the most conservative affairs. Black-tie optional affairs now can have as many dark suits as tuxedos. We are, without a doubt, becoming a less formal society. Weddings, especially, have seen the traditional formal attire replaced by less formal suits and non-white shirts. Even if they wear the traditional white they are opting for non-traditional collar styles such as the “club” or “tab” to achieve a distinctive look. However, if you are working in a...

An easy rule — the fewer details the better. The Two Acceptable Details: Pockets and Monograms Pockets If you have use for a pocket, you should have one. It is an acceptable feature of a business dress shirt, and is the preference of 90% of our customers. Monograms A monogram, tastefully done and placed, can be the final touch of elegance that transforms a shirt from a quality garment to a personal expression that makes that shirt uniquely yours. The monogram’s popularity has increased and is now accepted in even the most conservative environments. Whether or not to monogram your...

since it’s no longer necessary to play by the old rule of “solid shirt with striped or patterned suit”, and patterns are mixed very freely, you are no longer forced to look like everyone else even though you, too, have a navy pinstripe suit. The navy pinstripe suit can take a conservative approach with a classic straight-collar shirt in white, or become dashing with a spread-collar blue stripe with contrasting white collar and white French cuffs. A different collar style, or color, or pattern, can give the suit a new look. By rotating your shirts and ties with your suits,...

I think we should address the option of having your shirts custom made, and define exactly what custom means.  Custom shirts, or bespoke, as the English say, are shirts made from an individual pattern for the specific customer according to his specific measurements and style requirements. This is very different from made-to-measure, which is accomplished by simply altering a stock pattern or stock pattern pieces to a customer’s measurements. In this method, the result can be very inconsistent. Each time you order true custom shirts, your own paper pattern is used to cut the cloth. Consequently, each time you order,...

The man who shops for himself has discovered that the simple shirt size has become a mystery. Years ago, he could go into a store and ask for a shirt by knowing his neck and sleeve size. No longer. He now has to ask several questions:Is the shirt a full-cut shirt? Are the sleeve lengths exact? Is the collar size cut for shrinkage? Is the sleeve length cut for shrinkage? How long are the tails? Once it is determined that the answers are satisfactory,he has to be concerned with label. Labels become important because the sizing on private labels in a...

Manufacturing in the U.S.A.Over the years, many manufacturers have moved their manufacturing overseas, primarily in an effort to reduce costs. Despite some of the apparent cost advantages this can provide, we are convinced that, when everything is considered, manufacturing in the U.S.A. is the right thing for The Shirt Store.  For years, I have subcontracted cutting and sewing to the Barnesboro Shirt Company in Barnesboro, PA. The factory,which is 300 miles west of New York City, is close enough to allow me to regularly inspect the quality of the workbeing done at the factory. And, believe me, manufacturing one of...